Choose a kafana for the occasion, not every meal
Skadarlija is the place for a long, traditional kafana dinner with live music, grilled meat, sarma, and rakija. It is a good choice for atmosphere and a group meal, but it is not automatically the cheapest way to eat Serbian food. Reserve for a weekend evening and ask about music or cover charges before settling in. For a faster, less ceremonial lunch, look in Dorćol or Vračar for a grill, a cooked-dish restaurant, or a bakery rather than ordering a full mixed grill in the tourist core.
Match the neighbourhood to the meal
Use Dorćol for cafés, modern Serbian cooking, and an easy walk back to Kalemegdan. Vračar is useful after the Temple of Saint Sava and tends to suit a quieter dinner. Along the Sava, restaurants around Beton Hala and the waterfront are about the river setting as much as the food, so expect drinks and views to affect the bill. Kalenic Market and nearby bakeries are better for morning supplies, burek, yoghurt, fruit, and a casual snack than for a formal meal.
What to order and how to keep the bill sensible
Try pljeskavica, ćevapi, kajmak, prebranac, or sarma, but share a meat-heavy plate if you want room for starters and dessert. Ask for Prokupac or a local wine by the glass if wine is the plan; rakija is potent and usually served in a small measure. Weekday lunch menus can offer better value than dinner, while bakery food is the reliable budget option. Table service, opening days, and card acceptance vary more than menus suggest, so check at the door. Plan the meal around the walking route, not the other way around.