Where to eat in Split: choose the meal, then the street
For Dalmatian cooking, book or queue at Villa Spiza. It is a small, informal place near the palace and a sensible pick for seasonal plates, pasta and fish. There is limited seating, so arrive early, accept that a queue is possible, and do not count on it for a tightly timed ferry dinner. It is mid-range rather than cheap, and the daily offer is part of the point.
For a quick local-style meal, use the places that are built for it. Kantun Paulina near Narodni trg is a reliable stop for ćevapi, while Fife in Veli Varoš is known for large, straightforward Dalmatian portions. These are useful after sightseeing, but opening patterns and payment practices can change, so verify on the day rather than relying on an old cash-only claim.
For a longer dinner, move away from the palace pinch points. Bokeria is a popular reservation option for shareable plates and wine near the centre. Zrno Soli at the marina is a more formal seafood choice, best for a planned evening rather than an inexpensive meal. Both are in the higher price bracket than a konoba or grill. Reserve in summer, particularly if you want an outdoor table.
Let the Pazar solve breakfast and picnic needs. The market beside the eastern palace gate is good for fruit, bread and supplies before an island day, not for a leisurely late dinner. Seafood prices vary with the catch, so ask before ordering whole fish anywhere. Base the meal around your route in things to do in Split, and pick a neighbourhood that makes early ferries or late dinners manageable in the accommodation guide.