About Đavolja Varoš
Đavolja Varoš (Devil's Town) is one of Serbia's most bizarre and unique natural phenomena — a surreal, almost alien landscape of 202 earth pyramids (scientifically known as hoodoos or earth pillars) carved by centuries of erosion in a remote mountain valley in southern Serbia near the town of Kuršumlija. These otherworldly formations, some reaching up to 15 meters in height, are topped with protective stone caps (andesite blocks) that shield the softer volcanic tuff and clay beneath from rain erosion, creating a dense forest of slender, conical stone towers that resemble a petrified Gothic city or a congregation of frozen human figures. Local folklore, as dark and dramatic as the name suggests, tells stories of this being the site where the devil gathered his demonic army, and the 'tears' that seem to drip from the stone columns are said to be the petrified tears of the devil's mother mourning her son's defeat. The scientific explanation, while less supernatural, is equally fascinating: ancient volcanic tuff and andesite rocks eroded by wind, rain, and frost over millions of years created these unique and fragile formations, which continue to evolve slowly over time. The site is also famous for its two highly acidic mineral springs — 'Red Well' (Crveno Vrelo) and 'Devil's Water' (Đavolja Voda) — with water of pH 1.5, so acidic it can corrode metal, yet believed by locals to have healing properties for various ailments. A wooden viewing platform provides an excellent vantage point over the main cluster of pyramids, and the surrounding area features hiking trails through dense forest leading to smaller groups of formations and the mineral springs. The site is a protected natural monument of the highest category and is on the tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status. The best time to visit is on a clear day, ideally in the late afternoon, when the low-angle sunlight creates dramatic shadows and the contrast between the reddish-tipped stone towers and the surrounding lush green forest produces impressive photographic compositions. The drive through winding mountain roads to reach this remote site is an adventure in itself. Đavolja Varoš draws anyone fascinated by unique geological formations, natural wonders, and places where the landscape itself seems to tell stories.
🗓 Best Time to Visit
April to October. Serbia experiences warm summers and cold winters. The cities are best April-June and September-October. The Danube and Sava riverside activities peak in summer. Skiing at Kopaonik and Zlatibor runs December-March. The EXIT festival in Novi Sad draws visitors in early July.
🍽 Food & Drink
Pack a picnic! Traditional mountain food in the region includes hearty stews, grilled meats, local cheeses, and fresh bread — perfect refueling after a day on the trails. Nearby villages and mountain huts serve local specialties. Local dishes include: pljeskavica (stuffed grilled burger patty — the 'Serbian hamburger'), ćevapi (grilled minced meat sausages), sarma (stuffed cabbage), kajmak (creamy dairy spread), and prebranac (baked beans). For drinks, try rakija (Šljivovica plum brandy is the national drink), Serbian wines (Smederevka, Prokupac, and Bermet from Sremski Karlovci), and Jelen or Lav beers.
🚗 Getting There & Around
By car: A car is the most practical way to reach Đavolja Varoš, as public transport to national parks and remote natural areas is limited. Parking is available at visitor centers. By bus/tour: Some parks are served by seasonal buses or organized tours from major cities. Getting around: Once inside, walking trails, boardwalks, and park shuttle buses are the primary means of exploration. Buses are the most extensive domestic network. Trains (Srbija Voz) have improved — the Belgrade-Novi Sad line is modern (35 minutes). Car rental is affordable. The highway network connects Belgrade, Novi Sad, Niš, and Subotica.
🏨 Best Hotels Near Đavolja Varoš
While Đavolja Varoš itself is a natural wonder with limited accommodation inside its boundaries, the surrounding areas offer a range of places to stay. The nearest towns and villages provide everything from cozy guesthouses run by local families to comfortable hotels with modern amenities. For nature lovers, eco-lodges and mountain cabins offer the chance to sleep surrounded by forest, waking up to birdsong and fresh mountain air. Many of these accommodations provide packed lunches for day trips into the park, as well as guided tour arrangements and equipment rental. Camping facilities are available nearby for those seeking a more immersive outdoor experience. Book well in advance during peak season (June-September), as accommodation near popular natural attractions fills quickly. Staying nearby also means you can arrive at the park entrance before the crowds, enjoying the trails in peaceful morning light. Serbia offers excellent value accommodation from boutique hotels in Belgrade to traditional guesthouses in Zlatibor and affordable city-center hotels in Novi Sad and Niš.
🍽 Where to Eat Near Đavolja Varoš
Dining options around Đavolja Varoš range from mountain huts and park cafes serving hearty snacks and hot meals to restaurants in nearby villages specializing in traditional local cuisine. Packing a picnic is a wonderful option — local markets in the nearest towns offer fresh bread, local cheeses, cured meats, and seasonal fruit that make for an unforgettable al fresco lunch surrounded by nature. Many park entrances have basic cafes serving coffee, pastries, and simple hot meals. The villages around the park are where you'll find the best traditional restaurants, often using ingredients sourced from the surrounding forests and farms. In season, look for wild mushroom dishes, game stews, foraged greens, and local dairy products. Spring water fountains are common in most natural areas, so bring a reusable bottle to fill up. If staying at a mountain lodge, be sure to try their home-cooked dinner — these family-run establishments take pride in their local recipes. Serbian cuisine is meat-centric and hearty — ćevapi, pljeskavica, sarma, kajmak, and rakija are staples, with excellent wines from Fruška Gora and Negotin.
🎯 Things to Do at Đavolja Varoš
Đavolja Varoš is a paradise for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. Hiking is the primary activity — trail networks range from easy walks suitable for families to full-day treks for experienced hikers, with viewpoints, waterfalls, and natural features as rewards along the way. Photography opportunities are extraordinary, with dramatic landscapes, diverse wildlife, and striking seasonal changes. Wildlife watching is rewarding — bring binoculars for bird spotting and keep an eye out for larger mammals like deer, bears, or wolves depending on the park. Boat trips or kayaking are available where lakes or rivers run through the park. In winter, some parks offer snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Many natural attractions have designated picnic areas where you can enjoy lunch surrounded by impressive scenery. Guided tours offer deeper insight into the park's ecology, geology, and history. For the best experience, arrive early to experience the park in the peaceful morning light before the day-visitor crowds arrive. Serbia's attractions range from Belgrade's lively nightlife and Kalemegdan Fortress to medieval monasteries, the Đavolja Varoš natural wonder, and the Danube's impressive landscapes.
Tips for Đavolja Varoš: (1) Wear sturdy walking shoes for the steep trail descending into the valley — the path is about 1.5 km each way with significant elevation change. (2) Visit on a clear day for the best photo opportunities — the contrast between the reddish earth pyramids and the green forest is most dramatic in good light. (3) Bring a water bottle to taste the mineral spring 'Devil's Water' (Đavolja Voda) — it's highly acidic but locals drink it for its supposed health benefits.