About Velika Planina
Velika Planina (Great Pasture Plateau) is one of Europe's largest and best-preserved high-mountain pastoral settlements, sitting at 1,500-1,666 metres elevation in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. The plateau is famous for its traditional herdsmen's huts (preskarji) — dark, wooden, oval-roofed buildings that have been inhabited by shepherds and cattle herders since at least the 14th century. Unlike the chalets found in the nearby Austrian Alps, the Velika Planina huts are uniquely Slovenian — built in an oval shape with wooden shingle roofs, painted with distinctive symbols for protection. The main settlement, Preskarjeva koča, has about 65 huts, many still in active use from June to September when shepherds bring their cattle up to graze the lush alpine pastures. The area is accessible via a cable car from the valley (€17 return) or a 3-hour hike from the Kamniška Bistrica valley (the best option for fit hikers). The plateau is crisscrossed with walking trails, including the 3 km educational trail that passes the herdsmen's huts, a reconstructed 15th-century chapel, and the Velika Planina museum (included with cable car return). The herdsmen produce excellent cheese (trnič — a traditional hard cheese, €4-6 per piece) from the cows that graze on the mineral-rich alpine grasses. The plateau is also famous for its striking karst sinkholes (115 on the plateau) and the 35-metre-high Vetrnica Cave. The views from the plateau are stunning — on clear days you can see Triglav (Slovenia's highest peak), the Julian Alps, and all the way to Croatia's Medvednica mountain. In winter, the area is a cross-country skiing and snowshoeing destination with 20 km of marked trails. The cable car operates year-round — in winter (December-March) it's a base for ski touring access. The nearby town of Kamnik (15 km from the valley) is a charming medieval market town worth exploring before or after your visit.
🗓 Best Time to Visit
July-August is the peak season when all the herdsmen's huts are occupied and the plateau is at its greenest. June and September are quieter with pleasant temperatures (15-22°C) and the herdsmen are still present. May can be cold and the cable car may not operate if snow is still on the plateau. October offers stunning autumn colours when the larches turn gold. Winter (December-March) is beautiful for cross-country skiing — check the cable car schedule (limited winter operation). The plateau is open year-round but the herdsmen (and the cheese production) are only there June-September.
🍽 Food & Drink
The plateau has three mountain huts (koče) serving traditional Alpine food. Must-try dishes include trnič (the local hard cheese, €4-6 each), žganci (buckwheat spoonbread, €7-9), gobova juha (wild mushroom soup, €5-7), and štruklji (€8-10). The famous Velika Planina štruklji at Zeleni Rob hut are stuffed with tarragon and cottage cheese (€9) — a plateau speciality. The herdsmen sell fresh and aged cheese directly from the huts (€3-5 per 100g) — look for the small handwritten signs. Local schnapps from Kamnik (€1-2 per shot) is perfect after a hike.
🚗 Getting There & Around
By cable car: The Velika Planina cable car (Kabelska žičnica) departs from the valley station near Kamniška Bistrica (12 km from Kamnik, 25 km from Ljubljana). €17 return, 4-minute ride, operates 8am-7pm daily June-September, shorter hours in other months. Parking at the cable car base: €5/day. By car: From Ljubljana, take the A1 to Kamnik exit, then follow signs to Kamniška Bistrica valley (45 min total). By bus: Seasonal buses from Kamnik to the cable car base (€2, 20 min, June-September hourly). By hike: The 3-hour hike from Kamniška Bistrica valley (free, 8 km, 800m elevation gain) is a rewarding alternative — well-marked trail through forest and alpine meadows.
🏨 Best Hotels Near Velika Planina
The plateau has basic accommodation at the mountain huts (koče). Zeleni Rob (decent sleeping quarters, €25-35 per person, shared rooms, basic) and Planšarski Dom (€30-40 per person, slightly better facilities, 15 beds). Both require booking at least 1-2 weeks ahead in July-August. For more comfort, stay in Kamnik — Hotel Paka (€60-80/night) or the charming Guesthouse Menina (€55-70/night). The Kamnik area has several tourist farms (€50-65/night with breakfast). Most visitors day-trip from Ljubljana.
🍽 Where to Eat Near Velika Planina
The plateau's three huts serve food throughout the day: Zeleni Rob (mains €8-13, the biggest kitchen, best štruklji), Planšarski Dom (mains €7-11, good soup and goulash), and Gradišče (mains €7-10, quieter, good strudel). The herdsmen sell cheese directly from the huts (€3-5 per 100g) — buy some for a picnic. The cable car station has no restaurant — bring supplies for the plateau. Kamnik town has good dining options: Restavracija Kamnik (€10-16 mains, Glavni trg 4) and Gostilna Menina (€8-14 mains). The Kamnik Sunday market (8am-12pm) is excellent for picnic provisions.
🎯 Things to Do at Velika Planina
Take the cable car up (€17 return, 4 min ride, spectacular views). Walk the 3 km educational trail across the plateau (free, 1 hour, passes huts, chapel, and museum). Visit the reconstructed 15th-century chapel (free, beautifully restored). Buy fresh trnič cheese from the herdsmen (€4-6 each, look for the handwritten signs at the huts). Hike to the Gradišče viewpoint (free, 30 min, the highest point at 1,666 m, panoramic views of the Julian Alps and Kamnik-Savinja Alps). Visit the Velika Planina museum (€3, small but interesting, traditional pastoral life). Photograph the herdsmen's huts (free, the oval-roofed preskarji are unique to this region). Visit the Vetrnica Cave (free, 35-metre deep karst shaft, accessible via a 15-minute walk from the main settlement — bring a torch). Follow the Charcoal Trail (free, 2 km, explains the traditional charcoal-burning process, informative signs). Go cross-country skiing or snowshoeing (December-March, trail pass €5-8 at the cable car station, equipment rental available in Kamnik). Try paragliding tandem flights from the plateau (€100-140, launch from Gradišče ridge, book at the Kamnik tourist office). Enjoy a glass of milk or buttermilk at a herdsman's hut (€2-3, sold warm in traditional wooden cups). Hike the 8 km trail down to Kamniška Bistrica valley (free, 3 hours downhill).
💡 Insider Tips: Arrive at the cable car before 9am to have the plateau to yourself (tour buses arrive from 10am). The 3-hour hike up from Kamniška Bistrica is a better experience than the cable car if you're fit. Buy cheese directly from the herdsmen — it's half the price of the tourist shops and genuinely fresh. The trnič cheese keeps well for 1-2 days without refrigeration — good for a picnic. Visit on a weekday to avoid weekend crowds. The plateau is very exposed — bring sun protection, a warm layer, and water for the full day. The mountain huts accept card payment but cash is more reliable. Combine with a visit to the medieval town of Kamnik for a perfect day.